Complete Guide to Gemstone Jewellery: Varieties, Quality and Care
Gemstone jewellery adds colour, character and individuality to a jewellery collection. From emerald rings and ruby pendants to sapphire earrings, amethyst designs and pearl jewellery, each gemstone has its own appearance, characteristics and care requirements.
But how do you choose the right gemstone jewellery? Understanding gemstone types, quality, treatments, durability and authenticity can help you make a more informed decision before purchasing.
In this guide, Aurlet explains what to look for when choosing gemstone jewellery, how to understand common gemstone treatments and how to care for your jewellery so it remains beautiful for longer.
What Is Gemstone Jewellery?
Gemstone jewellery is jewellery that features one or more gemstones set into a metal such as gold or silver. The stones may be used as a central feature, as decorative accents or in combinations with diamonds and other gemstones.
Gemstone jewellery comes in many styles, including rings, pendants, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. Some designs use a single coloured stone, while others combine several stones to create contrast and detail.
When choosing gemstone jewellery, consider three main factors: the appearance and quality of the stone, the suitability of the setting, and the care required for the finished piece.
Popular Types of Gemstones Used in Jewellery
Different gemstones offer different colours, visual effects and practical characteristics. The best choice depends on your personal style, intended use and budget.
| Gemstone | What it is | Colours mentioned | Key point to remember |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ruby | Corundum | Typically red | Mohs hardness of 9 |
| Sapphire | Corundum | Blue, pink, yellow, green and others | Mohs hardness of 9 |
| Emerald | Green variety of beryl | Green | Commonly contains inclusions; often treated |
| Amethyst | Purple variety of quartz | Purple | Can be scratched by harder materials; some stones may fade in strong light |
| Topaz | Gemstone with several colours | Several | Relatively hard but can be vulnerable to certain impacts |
| Garnet | A group of gemstones | Red, green, orange and others | Properties vary by species |
| Pearl | Different from faceted gemstones | - | Relatively soft; sensitive to chemicals, cosmetics and abrasion |
Ruby and Sapphire
Ruby and sapphire belong to the mineral family corundum. Ruby is typically red, while sapphire occurs in several colours, including blue, pink, yellow and green.
Both ruby and sapphire have a Mohs hardness of 9, making them resistant to scratching compared with many other jewellery gemstones. However, hardness is not the same as toughness, and a strong impact can still damage a gemstone or its setting.
These stones can be used in rings, earrings, pendants and statement jewellery. When purchasing, consider colour, transparency, cut, treatments and any available laboratory documentation.
Emerald
Emerald is a green variety of the mineral beryl. Its rich green colour makes it a popular choice for rings, pendants and statement pieces.
Emeralds commonly contain internal features known as inclusions. These features can be part of the stone's natural appearance, and their presence does not automatically mean a gemstone is poor quality.
Many emeralds undergo treatments, including oil or resin filling, to improve the apparent clarity of fractures. Ask whether the stone has been treated and whether it requires special care.
For regular wear, a protective setting and careful handling can help reduce the risk of damage.
Amethyst, Topaz, Garnet and Other Coloured Gemstones
Amethyst is a purple variety of quartz. Topaz comes in several colours, while garnet includes a group of gemstones that can appear red, green, orange and other shades.
These gemstones provide different options for colourful jewellery designs. Their quality depends on the specific material, colour, clarity, cut, size and any treatments.
Topaz is relatively hard but can be vulnerable to certain impacts because of its cleavage. Amethyst can be scratched by harder materials and some stones may fade with prolonged exposure to strong light. Garnet properties also vary by species.
Check the care instructions for the specific stone rather than assuming all coloured gemstones can be treated alike.
Pearls and Other Delicate Materials
Pearls offer a different appearance from faceted mineral gemstones. Their lustre, surface condition, shape and size influence their appearance and desirability.
Pearls are relatively soft and sensitive to chemicals, cosmetics and abrasion. They are generally better suited to careful handling than to activities that expose them to frequent impact.
Other materials, such as opal and turquoise, also require attention to their particular durability and care requirements.
How to Evaluate Gemstone Quality
Gemstone quality is not determined by one measurement alone. Colour, clarity, cut, size, durability, treatments and origin can all influence a stone's appearance and market value.
Colour
For many coloured gemstones, colour is one of the most important quality factors.
Consider the hue, intensity and distribution of colour. Depending on the gemstone, a balanced, attractive colour may be more desirable than a stone that is simply larger.
Where possible, examine the jewellery under neutral lighting. Very warm or strongly coloured lighting can change how a gemstone appears.
Clarity
Clarity describes the internal features and surface characteristics of a gemstone.
Some stones naturally contain inclusions, and their significance varies by gemstone type. An inclusion that is common in one material may have a different impact on another stone's appearance, durability or value.
Do not assume that every natural gemstone should be completely free of inclusions. Instead, consider how visible the features are, whether they affect the stone's structure and what is normal for that material.
Cut and Shape
Cut refers to how a gemstone has been shaped and faceted or polished. A well-executed cut can help display a stone's colour, brilliance and visual appeal.
Shape describes its outline, such as round, oval, pear or cushion. Choose a shape that complements the jewellery design and your preferences.
Carat Weight and Size
Carat is a unit of gemstone weight. It does not directly indicate the stone's dimensions, quality or value.
Two gemstones with the same carat weight can look different because of their shape, depth, proportions and material density.
When shopping online, check the stated dimensions and weight where provided, rather than relying on photographs alone.
Durability and Setting
Gemstone durability involves more than resistance to scratching. Toughness, cleavage, fractures, treatments and sensitivity to heat or chemicals also matter.
A protective bezel setting can help shield a stone's edges, while prong settings allow more light to reach the gemstone but need to be checked periodically for security.
For everyday rings, consider the stone's durability and the activities you normally perform. A gemstone suitable for occasional wear may require more protection when used in a frequently worn ring.
Related: how Aurlet's Certification works, and our guide to choosing gold and diamond jewellery.
Natural, Treated and Laboratory-Grown Gemstones
Understanding a gemstone's origin and treatment is important when comparing jewellery.
What Are Natural Gemstones?
Natural gemstones form through geological processes. After being recovered, they may be cut, polished and sometimes treated before being used in jewellery.
Natural origin does not automatically mean a stone is untreated or superior in every quality characteristic. Each gemstone should be assessed on its own attributes and documentation.
What Are Treated Gemstones?
Gemstone treatments are processes used to change or improve a stone's appearance or other characteristics. Common examples include:
Heat treatment
Used for certain gemstones to modify colour or clarity.
Oiling and resin filling
Used in some emeralds to reduce the visibility of fractures.
Dyeing
Used to change or intensify the colour of certain porous or fractured materials.
Fracture filling
Materials are introduced into fractures to improve apparent clarity.
Coating
A surface layer changes the gemstone's appearance.
Treatments differ in stability, acceptance and care requirements. Some are commonly used in the trade, while others can significantly affect durability or value.
Ask the seller which treatments, if any, have been identified and what care restrictions apply. For valuable gemstones, an independent gemological report may provide useful information.
What About Laboratory-Grown Gemstones?
Laboratory-grown gemstones are produced using technological processes rather than forming naturally in the Earth. Depending on the material, they may have similar or essentially the same chemical and physical properties as their natural counterparts.
A laboratory-grown gemstone is not the same as a simulant. For example, lab-grown ruby is corundum, whereas a red glass imitation is a different material.
Always check whether a product is described as natural, laboratory-grown, treated or simulated. These terms are not interchangeable.
How to Choose Gemstone Jewellery for Everyday Wear
The right gemstone depends on where and how you plan to wear the jewellery.
For everyday rings, consider harder stones, secure settings and a design that can withstand your normal activities. Ruby and sapphire are relatively hard choices, although no gemstone is immune to damage.
For pendants and earrings, the stone may experience fewer direct impacts than a ring, making a wider range of gemstones practical.
For special occasions, you may prefer a more delicate gemstone or an elaborate setting, provided you understand its handling and maintenance needs.
Before buying, review the metal purity, stone specifications, setting, product dimensions and any care instructions supplied by the jeweller.
How to Clean and Store Gemstone Jewellery
Proper care helps preserve a gemstone's appearance and reduces the risk of avoidable damage.
Cleaning
There is no single cleaning method that is safe for every gemstone.
For jewellery confirmed to be suitable for gentle home cleaning, lukewarm water, mild soap and a soft cloth may be appropriate. Avoid harsh chemicals, abrasive materials and sudden temperature changes.
Do not use ultrasonic or steam cleaners unless the gemstone, treatments and setting are confirmed to be suitable. These methods can damage certain stones or affect treatments.
If you are unsure, ask a qualified jeweller for stone-specific cleaning advice.
Storage
Store gemstone jewellery separately in a soft pouch or lined compartment to reduce scratches caused by contact with harder stones or metal edges.
Keep delicate materials away from excessive heat, direct sunlight where relevant, moisture extremes and chemicals. Pearls should be protected from perfumes, hairsprays and cosmetics.
Wearing Your Jewellery
Put jewellery on after applying cosmetics and fragrance. Remove pieces before swimming, exercising, cleaning with chemicals or performing activities that could cause impact.
Inspect settings periodically, particularly for rings and bracelets that receive frequent contact. If a stone moves or a setting appears damaged, stop wearing the piece until it has been checked.
Related: Aurlet's Warranty and FAQs pages, or contact us with a care question.
What to Check Before Buying Gemstone Jewellery Online
Before ordering gemstone jewellery, review the following details:
- Gemstone identityCheck the stated stone type and whether it is natural, laboratory-grown, treated or simulated.
- Quality detailsReview colour, dimensions, carat weight where supplied, cut and visible characteristics.
- Treatment disclosureAsk about treatments and any special care requirements.
- DocumentationCheck whether a laboratory report or other product documentation is provided and what it actually confirms. See Aurlet's Certification page.
- Metal specificationsVerify the gold purity or other metal stated in the product listing. See the Metal Karat Guide.
- Price transparencyReview the total price, taxes, shipping charges and customisation costs.
- Product photographsUse images to understand design and appearance, but do not treat them as proof of authenticity.
- PoliciesRead the applicable delivery, return, exchange, warranty and after-sales terms. See Aurlet's Warranty page.
A careful comparison helps you select jewellery based on its actual characteristics rather than relying on appearance alone.
Whether you prefer the green of an emerald, the deep blue of a sapphire, the purple of amethyst or the classic appearance of pearls, choose a piece that matches your style and intended use.
Understanding gemstone quality and care can help you enjoy your jewellery with greater confidence.
Frequently Asked Questions About Gemstone Jewellery
What are the most popular gemstones used in jewellery?
Popular choices include ruby, sapphire, emerald, amethyst, topaz, garnet, opal, turquoise and pearls. Their suitability depends on the design, durability, appearance and care requirements.
How can I tell whether a gemstone is real?
Visual inspection alone cannot reliably confirm gemstone identity or treatment. Review the seller's disclosures and obtain an appropriate report from a qualified gemological laboratory when necessary.
Are treated gemstones genuine gemstones?
A treated gemstone may still be a genuine natural gemstone, but the treatment changes one or more of its characteristics. The type of treatment should be disclosed where applicable.
Does a gemstone certificate guarantee its value?
No. A report may identify a gemstone, describe certain characteristics and disclose detectable treatments. It does not automatically guarantee market value, resale price or investment performance.
Which gemstones are suitable for everyday wear?
Ruby and sapphire are relatively hard gemstones, while other stones may require more protective settings or careful handling. Suitability depends on hardness, toughness, treatments, setting and how the jewellery is worn.
Can I clean all gemstone jewellery with soap and water?
No. Gentle soap and water may be suitable for some jewellery, but certain gemstones and treatments require different care. Confirm the appropriate method before cleaning.
Do gemstone treatments affect price?
They can. The type of treatment, its stability, the gemstone's quality and market expectations can all influence value. Compare stones with accurate treatment disclosures.
What should I check before buying gemstone jewellery online?
Check gemstone identity, treatments, metal purity, dimensions, documentation, price, shipping and the seller's applicable policies.
How should gemstone jewellery be stored?
Store pieces separately in a soft pouch or lined compartment. Protect delicate stones from abrasion, impact, unsuitable chemicals and environmental conditions that may cause damage.
Is natural gemstone jewellery always better than laboratory-grown jewellery?
Not necessarily. Natural and laboratory-grown stones differ in origin, and their individual quality, appearance, price and intended use should be considered. Choose based on your preferences and the product's disclosed characteristics.
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